Neighbourhoods
The expo district and the case for building a quarter from nothing
A whole quarter planned at once on former industrial land, which makes it the clearest test in the city of what planning can and cannot deliver.

Everything below about planned districts comes from what actually happens rather than from what is supposed to.
What holds up in practice
- It was built on contaminated industrial land as a single project.
- Level ground and lifts make it the most accessible district in the city.
- What it lacks is the accumulated small commerce of an older quarter.
A district with a birthday
Most of the city accumulated over centuries, but this quarter was designed, built and opened as one project on a former industrial riverside. The land it occupies had been used for fuel storage, slaughterhouses and waste, and reclaiming it was a substantial engineering job before any building began. Being planned in one go means the street widths, the drainage, the cabling and the public spaces all relate to each other by design.
It also means the buildings share an era and a vocabulary, which gives the district a visual coherence the old city never has. Whether that coherence reads as elegant or as sterile is the argument people have been having about it ever since it opened.
What is easy here
The ground is flat, the pavements are wide, kerbs are dropped and buildings have lifts, which together make it the easiest district in the city to move around. For anyone using a wheelchair, pushing a pram or simply tired of hills, that is not a minor amenity but the difference between possible and not. Public space is generous, with a long riverside promenade that is continuous rather than interrupted every few hundred metres.
Utilities and waste were designed in from the start, including underground collection, which is why the streets are unusually free of bins. Parking is planned rather than improvised, so cars are not stored on every pavement in the way they are in the older quarters.
What is missing when a place starts complete
A finished district has no cheap awkward premises, and cheap awkward premises are where small independent businesses begin. Retail therefore concentrates in the units that were built for retail, at rents that favour chains, which is a predictable consequence rather than a failure of taste.
The fine grain of an old street — a workshop, a repair shop, a bar with six stools — takes decades to appear and cannot be built directly. Public life is similarly slower to arrive, because the associations, clubs and habits that fill an old quarter are accumulated rather than designed. Districts like this generally do develop that texture, but on a timescale of generations rather than the few years people give them before judging.
The wind and the water
The quarter sits on the widest part of the estuary, and the wind comes off that water with very little to slow it down. Wide streets and tall buildings can channel that wind rather than block it, which makes some corners noticeably harsher than the sheltered old lanes. In compensation, summer evenings here are cooler than in the hill quarters, where stone holds the day's heat well past sunset.
In practice, the waterfront itself is the district's strongest asset, because it is long, level and genuinely public along its whole length.
Watching how much the wind dictates where people sit is a quick lesson in why old cities built narrow streets in the first place.
Who chooses to live here
Families, older residents and people who work in the office buildings nearby are the visible core, and each is choosing practicality over charm. Flats are newer, better insulated and far less likely to have the damp problems that define winter in an old building.
On an ordinary week, schools, clinics and supermarkets were provided as part of the plan, so daily life does not depend on a long trip elsewhere. The commute into the historic centre is straightforward, which is what makes the trade-off workable for people who want both. People who move here from the old quarters rarely describe it as romantic and frequently describe it as easy, which is the honest summary.
If that does not fit your week, it is not a failure of willpower.
What the old city could take from it
Continuous accessible public waterfront is achievable, and this district proves it in a city where most of the bank is fenced or severed. Designing waste, cabling and drainage before the buildings avoids a century of retrofitting, which the historic quarters are still paying for. Level access as a default, rather than as an adaptation, changes who can participate in a neighbourhood at every age.
The lesson running the other way is that fine-grained cheap space has to be deliberately reserved, because the market will not produce it. Judging the district against the old city on charm misses the point; judging it on whether people can live there easily is more useful.
The takeaway
Planning delivers accessibility and drainage. Texture has to arrive on its own, slowly.
The version you keep doing is the version that works.
Questions readers ask
Is it worth visiting?
For the riverside walk and the contrast with the old city, yes. As sightseeing in the conventional sense, there is not much.
Why does it feel less lively than the old quarters?
Because small, cheap, irregular premises are where independent street life starts, and a district built complete has none of them yet.
Also by Duarte Ferreira
- Viewpoints without the queueNeighbourhoods
- Tiles are cladding, not decorationNeighbourhoods
- The staircase streets and how they organise a hillNeighbourhoods
- Two microclimates: the riverside and the ridgeNeighbourhoods





