Neighbourhoods
Viewpoints without the queue
The famous miradouros are famous for good reason and are not the only places with the view.
Duarte Ferreira
Contributing writer, Coffee in Lisbon
Duarte writes about neighbourhoods and what changes about a street between March and August.
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12 articles
Neighbourhoods
Tiles are cladding, not decoration
The glazed façades that everyone photographs are doing structural and climatic work, and they are disappearing for specific reasons.
Neighbourhoods
The staircase streets and how they organise a hill
Steps are public roads here, and treating them as infrastructure explains a great deal about how neighbourhoods work.
Neighbourhoods
Two microclimates: the riverside and the ridge
Wind, humidity and temperature differ measurably between the bottom of the city and the top, and residents dress for it.
Neighbourhoods
What happens in a square, and when
A neighbourhood square runs a timetable of different populations, and it is the clearest window into how a street lives.
Neighbourhoods
The avenues, and the flat city most visitors never reach
North of the old town is a nineteenth and twentieth century city on level ground, and it is where a great deal of ordinary life…
Neighbourhoods
The pavement is a craft, and it is slippery
The patterned stone underfoot is laid by hand, one piece at a time, and it behaves badly in rain.
Neighbourhoods
Bairro Alto is two different places twelve hours apart
The same few dozen blocks work as a quiet residential grid in the morning and as the loudest room in the city after dark.
Neighbourhoods
What happens to a neighbourhood when the warehouses empty
The eastern riverfront was built for industry that has largely gone. What replaced it arrived in a predictable order, and the order…
Neighbourhoods
Campo de Ourique, and what a flat grid does to daily life
A regular nineteenth-century expansion on a plateau, where the absence of gradient quietly determines who can live independently…
Neighbourhoods
The expo district and the case for building a quarter from nothing
A whole quarter planned at once on former industrial land, which makes it the clearest test in the city of what planning can and…
Living There
Bins, recycling and the small civics of a shared building
Household waste here is a street-level system rather than a doorstep one, and the unwritten rules of a shared entrance matter more…